Thanksgiving time floods the papers and television waves with novel ideas to cook turkey, and new wine pairings for the annual bird. Call me a stick in the mud, but my favorite with this American feast is a toasty buttery California Chardonnay. And one of my favorite things to do with the Chardonnay (other than drink it) is to make gravy with it.
Chardonnay, originating in the Burgundy region of
It is a very neutral grape, picking up much of its character from the land or terroir on which it was grown and the methods used to vinify and age the wine. A crisp and elegant Chablis from the flinty hills outside
When making Chardonnays, there are two preeminent decisions a winemaker takes. The first is whether to use malolactic fermentation, which breaks down the harsher malic acid into lactic acid, which gives a buttery and smooth flavor. If malolactic fermentation is not used, the wine offers more of a green apple palate. The second decision is to use oak – or not. Without, the wines are crisper. With, depending on how much the oak is charred first, flavors of smoke, cream, spice, vanilla all appear. Since my thanksgiving table is redolent with butter, roasted skin on the turkey, creamed onions, warm spice in my squash and vanilla in dessert, I prefer the wines that are made using malolactic fermentation, with a good dose of toasty oak. California Chardonnays fit the bill.
In
One hallmark here at Sunset Hill House for our annual Thanksgiving feast is Chef Peterson’s chardonnay pan gravy. Simply deglaze the turkey pan with a cup of the chardonnay you will be offering at dinner (layering those flavors is both unexpected and sublime), then continue on with your favorite recipe, reducing the stock or water accordingly. Don’t be concerned about wine in the baby’s food - the alcohol will evaporate during cooking.
I’ll drink to your happy Thanksgiving, filled with all the treats of this American tradition.
